I have bad line karma, this is a fact. So of course when I go to use an ATM I get behind this harmless looking Thai woman who is nervously withdrawing large amounts of money from the machine. The money comes, her card is spit out and immediately she shoves it back in and starts the whole process of withdrawing the maximum amount allowed again. 'Odd...' I think to myself as I wait for her to finish. After her sixth or seventh withdrawal I am now very curious as to why someone would need to take that much money out of an ATM. Then it dawns on me... its probably not her card. I look at my mates and ask, "Is it normal to take out that much money?" and one of the boys responds with, "Do you really think that's her card? Some poor tourist bastard is getting ripped off and doesn't even know it yet." Welcome to Thailand eh? Not that there is much we could do in the situation. By the time we realized what she was doing she hurriedly made one last grab for cash and then practically ran across the street and ducked into an ally. If I wasn't already being careful about my cash and cards i'm hyper alert now!
Despite the scams and cons and rip-offs (which in most cases only cost the average tourist a few bucks and are about as common as identity theft in the US -which I have been a victim of twice) Thailand has been filled with friendly helpful folks and some incredible scenery.
The boys and I started our journey into Thailand at the Thai embassy in northern Malaysia. While waiting for our free visas I was happily munching on some fruit when I noticed something crawling in my bag. I nonchalantly picked it out, only to realize it was a scorpion! I quickly hucked it into the grass with a yelp that ended in laugh of relief that it hadn't stung me! Once our passports were stamped we haggled a taxi driver to take us to the border. A relentless argument ensued before we got the guy to agree to what we considered a fair price... a few hours later we found out we had jipped the guy almost half the expected rate. I felt bad but by the time we were crossing into Thailand we had a whole day of travel negotiations ahead of us. The highly "dangerous" border crossing was uneventful and we soon found ourselves in a minivan headed to the west coast. We weaved in and out of military road blocks at break=neck speed and when a storm turned into a downpour the driver didn't bother to slow down as we hydroplaned all over the shop.
When Llouis, Guilliem and myself boarded a bus I was relieved to have a few hours of carefree travel. I even got a cute blind old lady as a seat-mate and was enjoying her jabber toward me (she obviously didn't realize I was a foreigner) when suddenly, Grandma's chatter stopped and she rapidly pulled out a plastic bag before vomiting her lunch into it. And I thought the hydroplaning was bad! The up-chucks lasted the duration of the trip as I willed myself not to join the party. Arriving in a little coastal town called Satun, the boys and I raced through a downpour to find a hotel room. To save on money we pushed the two small beds together and exhaustedly slept three across. The next morning, in our search for a bus station, we came across an American named Harry. Harry has been living in Thailand for over a decade and was most helpful with directions and advice. He was so interesting that we all decided to have a chat. Low and behold it turns out that Harry graduated from Chico High School a few decades before I was born. His description of Chico in the 'good 'ol days' was a far cry from the hometown I know and love, and boy did he have a few hilarious stories! From getting drunk with the high school janitor to stealing the school bus to go joy riding, this guy and his buddies made even the biggest pranksters in my classes seem like amateurs!
Biding adieu to Harry, we began our journey to the tropical Island of Ko Lipe. The tiny Island is about the size of Chico State's campus and is home to both aboriginal fishing villagers and ethnic Thais. Right away the boys began an advanced diving course as I took a few days to acquaint myself with the Island. In between downpours that were loud enough to drown out conversation, I wandered the beaches and even spent a half day gardening with two incredibly nice Thai women who shared the same name. The next afternoon some local kids bounded up the steps and made themselves at home on my porch. Soon we were playing tic-tac-toe and I was giving an impromptu English lesson to the two older girls. Within an hour they were all happily singing the 'ABC's' and trying the hand-motions of the 'Itsy Bitsy Spider'. Another afternoon was spent snorkeling as the boys practised their diving a few meters below me. At lunch we boated to a tiny village of aboriginal fishermen and their families. We had coffee and cakes with one of the village elders as children around us played this awesome game that could only be described as extreme dodgeball mixed with bowling and freeze tag. After lunch and our village visit, the boat went to the second dive sight. One look at the deep bottomless water and massive swells and there was no way in hell I was getting off that boat. So instead I waited an hour as the boat Capitan fished using aboriginal fishing methods (no rod and an interesting jerking motion with the fishing line). As the wind picked up and the swells got bigger, I became greener and woozier. I willed myself to keep lunch down by singing every song I've ever even partially memorized, even continuing to sing as the divers returned and we sped to shore.
A few more rainy days, some coconut eating, and several enthralling conversations with an English gentleman named Al and we were leaving Ko Lipe and headed for the mainland. A HORRENDOUS two-hour boat ride (during which I was convinced we were going to capsize in the 4-8 meter high swells) and I was safely ashore. The Spaniards (Llouis and GuilL) and I are now in Krabi as we organize a rock-climbing trip over the course of the next week. I was lucky enough to run into a Czech guy named Radek who happens to be a climbing guru so the boys and I have lessons in exchange for beer! Let the good times roll!
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